República Dominicana: greener on the way to the land of the greenback, bluer to Curaçao. Emilio rolled another joint and I didnât feel at all seasick.
Ten miles out Emilio cut the engines. At sunset the sky and sea were blinding blue-bright, but the island was its own source of light. This was not just the sun shining off the leaves. This was the purple heart of the island itself. This was earth, sand, and mineral shining. With distended gaze drinking in the big picture, I thought I saw a gentle ripple in the terrestrial ridge. I couldnât be sure my eyes werenât playing tricks. âSon los mogotes de Viñales,â Emilio said. âEither that or itâs the rocks in your head.â
Toward nightfall I nodded off to the gentle samba of the water, but just after dark something roared overhead and wrested me back to reality. An airplane had buzzed close above our boat, flying much lower than would be possible on land. The small dual-engine was less than a hundred feet from star-board when I was shocked to see something as big as a man drop from inside the black mouth on the side of the fuselage. Emilio gunned the engine, wheeling hand over hand to roll the rudder.
â¡Carajo! What was that?â I shouted over the engine. The airplane climbed, pulled west.
âWhat do you think?â
âHermanos al Rescate?â
âNo way, primo. Thatâs the best Cesna there is. Los gusanos fly shitty little single-props.â
Emilio pulled the cutter up alongside the float. I saw it was not a man, but a small burlap raft shrink-wrapped in plastic. My cousin hooked and hoisted it onto the deck, and I saw through the clear plastic: a man-sized bushel of marijuana. Emilio plunged his knife into the parcel and the vacuum seal popped to release a great gush of fragrance. Golden-haired buds coated over with crystals gave the flowerlets the look of shaggy confections, sugared like churros. I held a cured branch as thick and long as my arm. Emilio had to say only one word to enlighten me: âColombians.â
âWhere do you get the money to pay for it?â
âI donât. They drop it free of charge. My socio on this detail is trustworthy, and heâs got a friend who sells in Havana at a great profit.â
We found a live crab in the folds of the burlap. âHeâs still crawling. He must have gotten in there wherever this bushel was wrapped.â
âMaybe it was deliberate, Escobarâs way of telling us itâs fresh.â Emilio threw the creature back into the sea. âMaybe heâll find himself a nice cangreja Cubana.â
Back on land, Emilio filled two Tropicola bottles for my car from coast guard pumps. âI can help you out, you know, if youâd like to get some dolares.â
âWhat would I need to do?â
âDrop something off with a friend in Havana. My socio and I need to find another reliable driver. Lately, there have been three or four deliveries a week.â
âNo, gracias.â
âI wouldnât offer if I didnât think youâd be perfect with your state Lada and your medical card. Just once or twice. Itâs an easy two hundred dollars a run.â
âIf they caught me, they wouldnât just put me in jail. Theyâd take away my doctorâs license.â
âWhen you get out, you could make more as a taxista.â
âThatâs the joke these days.â
âItâs no joke.â
Near midnight we were back in the Lada on the narrow, winding road into the mountains. Something ahead was holding up traffic. Around the curve we saw Manolitoâs mule and our stinkpotted tio loco strapped in the saddle, draped like a blanket over the animalâs neck, hands clasped behind her ears, snoring but somehow hanging on. A line of buses and taxis, their lights blazing and horns blaring, couldnât pass the struggling beast.
Lada and mule made it back to Abueloâs vega